Shoe and method of making shoes



Mardi c. D. TURNER 2,313,902

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 8, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 1March 16, 1943. c. D. TURNER 2,313,902

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 8, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2Patented Mar. 16, 1943 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFER SHOE AND METHOD OFMAKING SHOES Chester D. Turner, Haverhill, Mass, assignor to United ShoeMachinery Corporation, Flemington, N. J., a corporation of New JerseyApplication August 8, 1941, Serial No. 405,895

9 Claims. (01. 12 142) This invention relates to shoes and methods ofmaking shoes and is illustrated herein with reference to shoes havingstitchdown foreparts.

Objects of the invention are to provide an improved shoe of'th typereferred to which will havethe desired rigidity and stifiness in itsshank portion and yet will have unusual flexibility in its forepart, andto provide an improved method of making such shoes.

To this end the invention provides, in accordance with one aspect, animproved shoe whichis of single sole construction in its forepart, thesole comprising a sole or outsole secured by stitchdown construction toan outturned margin or flange on the upper, the shank portion of theoutsole being attached to the shoe bottom by cement. As hereinillustrated, the shoe is provided with a shank piece which extends fromthe heel end of the shoe to the ball line only and the lasting marginsof the upper at its shank and heel portions are turned inwardly andsecured in overlasted relation to this shank piece. Forwardly of theshank piece the upper is turned outwardly to form a marginal flange towhich the extension edgeor margin of the single sole at the forepart isattached by through-and-through stitches in accordance with the usualstitchdown construction. As illustrated, the shank portion of theoutsole is attached to the overlasted margins of the upper at saidportion by pyroxylin cement which provides a strong permanent bondbetween the sole and shoe at said shank portion and also imparts to saidportion considerable stiffness and rigidity. The single soleconstruction at the forepart of the shoe insures that such portion willbe relatively flexible and this flexibility is further insured by theabsence of a stifiening substance such as pyroxylin cement in thestitchdown construction at said forepart.

In the shoe herein illustrated the upper'is pro.- vided with areinforcing layer or strip, commonly referred to as a mudguard strip,which is attached by stitches to the lower margins of the forepart andshank portions of the upper and, at said shank portion, is coextensivewith the upper margin while at the forepart the strip extends beyond orbelow the upper to form the lasting margin thereof. Accordingly, thelasting margins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe are oftwo-ply formation comprising both the upper and the reinforcing ormudguard strip while the outturned margin or flange at the forepartcomprises only the single ply provided by the mudguard strip. In theshank portion of the shoe the two-ply formation ofthe lasting margin ofthe upper contributes to the desired rigidity oi construction and thisrigidity is further increased by securing the two plies of the margin toeach other and to the shank piece by means of "pyroxylin cement. On theother hand, the flexibility of the single sole, stitchdown constructionat the forepart of the shoe is increasedby limiting the outturnedmarginal flange of the upper at the forepart to the mudguard strip only.

In another aspect the invention provides an improved shoe similar inconstruction to the shoe described above but modified by the provisionof a second or top sole in addition to the outsole, this second solehaving an extension edge or margin at'its forepart corresponding in sizeand shape to the forepart of the outsole but being reduced at its shankand heel portions to the size and shape of an insole suitable for theshoe. In the modi fled construction the upper, with or without themudguard strip, is turned inwardly at its shank and heel portions, asbefore, and is secured preferably by cement in overlasted relation tothe second or top sole while, at the forepart, the lasting margin of theupper is turned outwardly and stitched to the extension edge of thesecond sole together with the outsole by through-andthrough stitches.The shankportion of, the outsole, as in the previous shoe, is attachedto the overlasted upper margins by pyroxylin cement. The shank portionof this'modified shoe will be somewhat more rigid than that of thesingle sole shoe owing to the two sole, construction while the forepartof the shoe will, of course, not be quite so flexible as the single soleshoe. The modified shoe, however, can-be repaired without damaging theshoe because the second or top sole will hold the shoe together whilethe outsole is beingre-Q. placed- In still another aspect,'the inventionprovides an improved method of making shoes in the practice of which theupperis assembled on a last with a short sole member or shank piecewhich extends from the heel end of the last to the ball line only, andthe shank and heel portions of the upper areturned inwardly and workedinto overlasted relation to the shankpiece and are secured in thatrelation, the margin of the forepart of the upper being thenturnedoutwardly to provide an outturned margin or flange to which theextension edge of an outsole may be secured by through-and-throughstitches. The outsole is laid on the shoe bottom with activatedpyroxylin cement on its shank portion and on the corresponding portionof 'theloverlasted margins of theupper. 1 Pressure. 'israp'r plied tothe shank portions of the sole and shoe to cement attach the sole to theshoe bottom. The extension edge of the forepart of the outsole is nextattached to the outturned margin of the upper by through-and-througlistitches in accordance with the usual stitchdown practice to completethe shoe except for the application of a heel and the usual finishingoperations, If desired, a welt may be attached to the top face of theoutturned flange of the upper during the stitching operation at theforepart.

With the above and other objects and aspects in view the invention willnow be described in connection with the accompanying drawings and. willthereafter be pointed out in the claims,

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe upper having a reinforcing ormudguard strip attached to the lower margins of its forepart and shankportions;

Fig.2 is a perspective view of a conventional molded shank piece withshank stiffener at:- tached, the shank piece being shown bottom side up;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of an outsole with the opposite margins ofits shank portion reduced in thickness and having pyroxylin cementapplied to the inner surfaces thereof;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the upper and shank piece assembled on alast with the shank and heel portions of the upper secured in over:vlasted relation to the shank piece and with the lasting margin of theforepart of the upper turned outwardly;

Fig. 5 is a cross sectional view throu h the shank portion of thepartially completed shoe of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a cross section through the forepart of the shoe illustratingthe operation of lasting the upper at said forepart;

Fig. 7 is a cross section similar to; Fig. 5 illustrating the step ofcement attaching the shank portion of the outsole to the shoe bottom;

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary section showing the outsole and a welt attachedby through-and: through stitches to the out-turned upper flange aroundthe forepart of the shoe;

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the completed es;

Fig. 10 is a perspective view of a sole used in making a modifiedconstruction of the shoe; and

Fig. ll is a perspective view showing the moditied shoe at the samestage of completion as the shoe of- Fig. 4.

in making a shoe in accordance with the method disclosedherein, a shoeupper {ill and a shank piece or tuck 22 are provided, the upper, asherein illustrated, having a reinforcing layer or so-called mudguardstrip 24 attached by a double row of stitches 26 to the lower margin ofits fore-. part and shank portions. The upper is prefer? ably cutsubstantially to size without the usual surplus for trimming and, asshown in Fig. 1, the mudguard strip 24 extends beyond or below the loweredge of the upper around its forepart and forms the lasting allowance ormargin for that portion of the upper. At the shank portion of the shoethe upper proper and the mudguard stripare coextensive at their marginsso that a the lasting margin of the upper at such portion is of two-plyor double thickness. It might be pointed out that, although the upper,as herein disclosed, is provided with a reinforcing or mudguard strip,such a construction is not absolutely essential in carrying out theinvention and an upper without such a strip could also be utilized inpractising the important aspects of the invention.

The shank piece 22, as shown in Fig. 2, conforms in size and shape tothe heel and shank portions of a last bottom and is preferably molded tothe longitudinal contour of the last bottom, the shank piece extendingfrom the heel end to the ball line only of the shoe, as shown in Fig. 2which illustrates the shank piece bottorn side up to show a usual steelshank stiffener 28 which is attached to its bottom surface to impartrigidity to the shank piece. The shank piece may be composed of fiber orsimilar material as is usually the case, or it may be composed ofleather, ,AlsO a Shown, the shank piece 22 is of the full width of theheel and shank portions of the last bottom.

an outsole 30 is also provided which, as illustrated in Fig. 3, ispreferably molded to conform to the shape ofv a last bottom and is ofusual thickness except at its shank portion where its opposite marginalportions 32 are preferably re.- duced in thickness to producerelativelythin edges which will assist in securing close fitting solemargins in the shank portion of the finished shoe.

The shank piece or tuck 22 is assembled with the upper 20 on a last 34,the shank piece being secured to the last bottom by tacks or othersuitable means, The upper is pulled' over and secured in place on thelast by pulling-over tacks in the usual manner. In the shank portion ofthe shoe, the lasting margin of the upper (which, as hereinbeforepointed out, comprises two lay ers, via, the upper proper and themudguard strip Z4 is turned inwardly and, after having been worked intooverlasted position upon the shank piece 22, is secured in such positionby means of pyroxylin cement, as indicated at 35 in Fig, 5, temporaryfastenings such as tacks or staples (not shown) being preferablyutilized to hold the overlasted margin in place during the dry-ing'orsetting of the cement which was preliminarily applied to the innersurface of the upper margin and to the margin of the shank ece- Preerablv. a d s herein sh at n Figs. 5 anq '7, the two layers whichcomprise the as in mar in o t e upper n t shank portion of the shoe aresecured to each other by pyroxylin cement the cem n h n ee a p i d between the a e s ust prior to e in eration- The heel or f h u p r ma beturned inwardly and secured in lasted position a ainst the hank ce 2 b mn of nks 3 which cl c ed ainst the metal a e on the heel or i n of hlast b t o Af er he up er a b en 1 shed wa d over the shank piece 22 atthe. shank and heel portions of the shoe, the lasting margin of theupper is slit inwardly from its edge at opposite sides of the shoe inthe vicinity of the ball line or where the shank piece terminates, thelocation of the slits being indicated in Fig. 4 by the numerals 36. Thelasting margin of the upper forwardly of the ball line and ofthe shankpiece 22 is then turned outwardly, either by hand or by a flangingmachine adapted for this kind of work, to form an outturned margin orflange 38 which extends around the forepart of the upper. It will beobserved that the portion of the upper which forms the outturned margin38 consists of the mudguard reinforcing strip only because, as stated,this strip extends beyond the upper mar-g sin around the for p rt o thshoe.

2,313,902- The upper is next lasted around the forepart of the shoe,this operation, as illustrated in Fig. 6, being preferably performed byhand with the aid of hand pincers 40 with which the outturned margin 38may be grasped and the upper pulled against the last until the edge ofthe mudguard strip 24 is substantially parallel to the edge of the lastbottom. This will insure that the lower edge of the upper proper, whichis not readily visible during the lasting operation, will also belocated in substantial alinement with the edge of the last bottom. Theforepart of the upper is secured in lasted position by tacks 42 (Fig. 6)which are preferably driven along the double seam of stitches 26 whichsecure the mudguard strip to the upper so that the resulting tack holeswill be effectively obscured or hidden in the finished shoe. The pullingover tacks at the forepart may be removed after the side tacks 42 havebeen driven.

The overlasting margins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoeare now roughed in the usual manner and pyroxylin cement is appliedthereto and allowed to dry, the cement being indicated in Figs. 4, and 7by the numeral 44. The outsole 30 is likewise roughed along the oppositemargins of its inner or attaching surface throughout its shank portiononly and these margins are coated with pyroxylincement, as indicated at45, (Fig. 3), and the cement is allowed to dry.

After the outsole has been thus prepared for application to the shoebottom, the lower surface of the outturned margin or flange 38 attheforepart of the upper, and the corresponding marginal extension at theforepart of the outsole are coated with a narrow stripe of cement,preferably a pressure responsive cement such, for example, as rubbercement or latex. The rubber cement on the forepart of the outsole isindicated at 45 in 3. The dry pyroxylin cement on the shank portions ofthe overlasted upper and outsole is activated by a suitable solvent,such as acetone. and. the outsole is laid on the shoe bottom. The shoewith the outsole applied thereto is then presented to a sole attachinpress of any usual or suitable type to apply sole attaching pressure tothe shank portions only of the shoe and sole and thus to cause theseportlons to become cement attached to each other by the pyroxylin cementthereon. A machine which may be conveniently used for performing thisoperation may be one of the type disclosed in Letters Patent of theUnited States No. 2,047,185, granted July 14, 1936, on an applicationfiled in the name of Ballard et al., this machine, as shown in thepatent, being provided with a fluid filled shoe receiving pad 41 andpressure applying abutments 48. Fig. 7 illustrates the operation ofattaching the shank portion of the outsole to the overlasted margins ofthe upper by pyroxylin cement. The shank portion ofthe shoe now containsthree separate layers or coatings of pyroxylin cement, viz., the lastingcement 35, the cement 31 between the two plies of the lasting margin,and the sole attaching cement 44. Consequently the shank portion of theshoe is rendered 'much more rigid and inflexible than is usually thecase in shoes having merely their outsoles attached by pyroxylin cement.The attachment of the shank portion of the outsole to the shoe by cementrequires the application of substantial pressure to such portion. Thispressure forces the reduced margins 32 of the outsole firmly against theoverlasted margins of the upper and holds them there While the cement issetting and accordingly produces close fitting sole margins in the 1shank portion of the shoe.

The outturned margin or flange 38 of the upper at the forepart of theshoe is next attached to projects beyond the last bottom by sewing saidoutturned margin to the outsole extension by through-and-throughstitches in the same manner as in a regular stitchdown shoe. Before thisoperation is performed, however, the outturned margin 38 is preferablypressed or boned in to the angle or crease between the last and the soleextension and is pressed against said extension with a suitable handtool (not shown) so that the pressure responsive cement 46 on theoutsole extension and the outturned margin 38 will cause these parts toadhere firmly together and thereby facilitate the stitching operation.At this point in the method the side lasting tacks 42 (Fig. 6) may beremoved. Since these tacks were driven along the seam which unites themudguard strip to the upper proper, the tack holes will not show in thefinished shoe.

The shoe is next presented to a stitchdown lasting machine of any usualtype and the outturned margin 33 of the upper is stitched to the outsoleextension by through-and-through stitches 50 which extend around theforepart of the shoe from the ball line at one side to the ball line atthe opposite side. If desired, the stitchdown lasting machine may beprovided with a welting attachmentand a welt 52 (Fig. 8) may besimultaneously applied to the top side of the outturned upper margin 38,the stitches 50 securing the welt to the upper. The shoe is nowcompleted except for the usual finishing operations, such as roughrounding the sole at the forepart, edge setting and burnishing,attaching a heel 54 (Fig. 9) and so forth.

The finished shoe illustrated in Fig. 9 will be characterized by thefact that its shank portion from the breast of the hee1 forwardly to theball line is unusually stiff and rigid because, as already pointed out,the shank portion. contains three layers of pyroxylin cement and alsobecause the lasting margin of the upper at said shank portion comprisestwo thicknesses or plies of up per material instead of only one ply. Theforepart of the shoe, however, will be characterized by much greaterflexibility than is usually the case in regular stitchdown shoes or incement shoes due to the fact that the shoe has only a single sole oroutsole at the forepart and because it is of stitchdown constructionrather than of welt or cement shoe construction. Moreover, the ab,-

sence of pyroxylin cement in the forepart of the shoe, either forlasting or for sole laying or attaching, also contributes to theflexibility of said forepart. Finally, the fact that the outturnedmargin or flange 33 at the forepart of the upper islimited to themudguard strip alone further contributes to the flexibility of theforepart.

Figs. 10 and 11 illustrate a modification of the nd or t p ole. Thsecond sol 56, s i lu r t in Fig. 10, is preferably composed of soleleather and is of full length so that it extends from the heel to thetoe end of the shoe. At its forepart 58 the sole 56 has an extensionedge or margin 59 which corresponds in size and shape to the margin ofthe forepart of the outsole which is to be used on the shoe, such asthat illustrated in Fig. 3, so that the sole 56 is of outsole size atits forepart. At its shank portion 65 and its heel portion 62, however,the second sole is reduced so that it corresponds in size and shape toan insole suitable for the shoe or, in other words, to the bottom of thelast upon which the shoe is to be constructed. As shown in Fig. theopposite margins of the shank portion of the second sole 56 may bereduced in thickness the same as those of the outsole in order to insurethat the shoe will have close fitting sole margins at its shank portion.

In constructing the modified shoe, the second sole is applied to thebottom of a last 63 by tacks or other fastenings in the usual manner anda shank piece 84, preferably composed of fiber and embodying a metalshank stiffener 66, is mounted on the second sole and secured thereto,the shank piece 6 extending forwardly only to about the ball line of theshoe, asillustrated in Fig. 11. A shoe upper 68 of the same constructionas the upper 26, and provided with a mudguard reinforcing strip orextension 19, is assembled on the last 63 with the second sole 5% andshank piece 5t and the lasting margin at the shank portion of the upper,comprising both the upper proper and the mudguard strip 10, which aresecured to each other by pyroxylin cement, is turned inwardly and workedinto overlasted relation to the shank piece and secured thereto bypyroxylin cement, the upper being temporarily held in lasted positionwhile the cement is setting by tacks, staples or other suitable means.As in the previous construction, the opposite margins of the upper areslit inwardly from their edges at about the ball line of the shoe byslits l2 and the lasting margin around the forepart of the upper,comprising only the mudguard strip "it, is turned outwardly so that, inthe finished shoe, it will overlie the upper surface of the extensionedge or margin 58 of the second sole 58. Fig. 11 illustrates how theshoe will appear at this stage of its construction.

To complete the modified shoe an outsole of the proper size and shape,such as the outsole 30, is roughed and coated in its shank portion withpyroxylin cement and is laid and cement attached to the overlastedmargins of the upper at the shank portion only of the shoe in the mannerdescribed above, the marginal extension on the forepart of the outsolefrom ball line to ball line being attached to the upper bythrough-andthrough stitches which also pass through the extension edgeor margin 59 of the second sole and the outturncd margin or flange onthe upper. If desired, a welt (not shown) may be attached to the uppersurface of the outturned margin of the upper during the stitchingoperation. When completed the shoe of Figs. 10 and 11 will have athicker sole portion than the shoe of Fig. 9 and accordingly will beless flexible at its forepart although more rigid at its shank portion.It has the advantage, however, of being repairable when the outsolewears out because the outsole may be removed and a new outsole appliedwithout destroying the shoe which will be held together during therepairing operation by the second or top sole 56.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire tosecure by Letters Patent of the United States is: a

1. A shoe comprising an upper, a shank piece and a sole, said shankpiece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball line only andsaid upper being provided with a reinforcing strip which extends beyondthe margin of the upper at its forepart and is substantially flush withthe lower edge of the upper at the shank and heel portions, said upperand reinforcing strip being turned inwardly at the shank and heelportions of the shoe and being secured in overlasted relation to theshank piece, and the portion of said reinforcing strip extending beyondthe margin of said upper at said forepart being turned out: wardly andsecured to the sole, the shank and heel portions of said sole beingattached to the overlasted margins of the upper by cement.

2. A shoe comprising a shank piece, an upper, and an outsole, said shankpiece extending from the heel end of the shoe to its ball iine only, andsaid upper being provided with a reinforcing strip around the lowermargin of its forepart and shank portions, said reinforcing strip beingcoextensive with the margin of the upper at the shank portion of theshoe but extending beyond the upper at the forepart to form the lastingmargin thereof, the margin of the upper and the reinforcing strip at theshank portion of the shoe being turned inwardly and secured to eachother by pyroxylin cement and being also secured in I overlastedrelation to the shank piece by pyroxylin cement, the heel portion of theupper being turned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to theshank piece, the reinforcing strip forwardly of said shank piece beingturned outwardly to form a flange around the forepart of the shoe towhich the extension edge of the forepart of the outsole is attached bythrough-and-through stitches, and the shank portion of said outsoiebeing attached to the overlasted margins. of the upper by pyroxylincement.

3. A shoe comprising a shank piece having a shank stiifener thereon, anupper provided with a mudguard reinforcing strip around the lower marginof its forepart and shank portions, and a single sole having theopposite margins of its shank portion reduced to form relatively thinedges, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to itsball line only, the margin of the upper including the reinforcing stripat the shank and heel portions of the shoe being turned inwardly andsecured in overlasted relation to the shank piece, and the reinforcingstrip only forwardly of the shank piece being turned outwardly andattached to the margin of the forepart of the single sole bythrough-and-through stitches, and the reduced shank portion of the sngle sole being attached to the overlasted portlons of said reinforcingstrip by pyroxylin cement, thereby providing the shoe with a stiff, 3inflexible shank portion having close fitting sole margins and with aflexible, single sole iorepart.

4. A shoe comprising an upper, a shank piece, an outsole, and a secondsole, said shank piece extending from the heel end of the shoe to itsball line only and said upper being provided with a marginal reinforcingstrip which be yond the upper at its forepart, the forepart of thesecond sole corresponding in size and shape to the forepart of theoutsole but the shank and heel portions of said second sole conformingin size and shape to an insole appropriate for said shoe, said secondsole being located uppermost in the shoe to engage the foot and saidshank piece being secured to the outer surface of the second sole, themargin of the upper at the shank and heel portions of the shoe beingturned inwardly and secured in overlasted relation to the shank piece,and the reinforcing strip at the forepart being turned outwardly tooverlie the margin of the second sole, said outsole engaging the secondsole throughout the forepart of the shoe but being secured to theoverlasted margins of the upper at the shank and heel portions of theshoe, the forepart of said outsole being attached to the second sole andoutturned reinforcin strip by through-and-through stitches.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding an upper having secured to its lower margin a reinforcingstrip which extends beyond the edge of said upper at its forepart,assembling the upper on a last together with a shank piece which extendsfrom the heel end of the last to its ball line only, turning the upperinwardly at the shank and heel portions of the shoe and securing it inoverlasted relation to the shank piece, turning the reinforcing stripoutwardly to form a flange at the lower margin of its forepart and shankportions, said strip extending beyond the edge of the upper at saidforepart, assembling the upper on a last with a shank piece whichextends forwardly only to the ball line of the shoe, working the upperinwardly at its shank and heel portions and securing it in overlastedrelation to the shank piece by cement, turning the reinforcing stripoutwardly at said forepart to form a flange, positioning a sole on theshoe bottom and attaching its shank and heel portions to the overlastedmargins of the upper by cement, and securing the forepart of the sole tothe outturned reinforcing strip by through and through stitches.

'7. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding an upper having a reinforcing strip attached to the lowermargin of its forepart and shank portions, assembling the upper on alast with a shank piece which extends from the heel end of the last toits ball line only, working the margin of the upper, including thereinforcing strip, inwardly at the shank and heel portions of the shoeand securing said margin in overlasted relation to the shank piece,turning the margin of the reinforcing strip outwardly to form a flangeforwardly of the ball line of the shoe, laying on the shoe bottom asingle sole having the opposite margins of its shank portion reduced toform thin edges, attaching the shank portion of the single sole to theoverlasted portions of the reinforcing strip by pyroxylin cement,thereby producing a stiff shank portion having close fitting solemargins, and attaching the forepart of the single sole to the outturnedmargin of the reinforcing strip by through-and-through stitches toproduce a flexible forepart on the shoe.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a shoe upper having a mudguard reinforcing strip stitched tothe lower margin of its forepart and shank portions, said reinforcingstrip being coextensive with said margin at the shank portion of theupper but extending beyond said margin at the forepart of the upper,assembling the upper on a. last with a shank piece which extends fromthe heel end of the last to its ball line only, turning the coextensivemargins of the upper and reinforcing strip inwardly at the shank portionof the shoe and securing them to one another and to the shank piece bypyroxylin cement, turning the margin of said reinforcing strip outwardlyin the forepart of the shoe to form an outturned flange, laying anoutsole on the shoe bottom and attaching the shank portion of theoutsole to the overlasted upper by pyroxylin cement, and attaching theforepart of the outsole to the shoe bottom by through-and-throughstitches which pass through the marginal extension on the outsole andthe outturned flange on the upper.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a shoe upper having a mudguard reinforcing strip attached by aseam of stitches to the lower margin of its forepart and shank portionsand extending beyond said margin at the forepart of the upper,assembling the upper on a last with a shank piece which extends from theheel end of the last to its ball line only, working the lasting marginof the shank portion of the upper, including the mudguard reinforcingstrip, inwardly over the shank piece and securing it in overlastedrelation thereto by pyroxylin cement, slitting the reinforcing stripinwardly from its edge at opposite sides of the ball line of the shoeand turning said strip outwardly forwardly of the slits to form anoutturned flange, working the forepart of the upper into lasted positionon the last and securing it in such position by driven fasteningsinserted along the seam of stitches which unites the reinforcing stripto the upper, roughing and applying pyroxylin cement to the overlastedmargins of the upper at the shank portion of the shoe and to the shankportion of the attaching face of an outsole, applying pressureresponsive cement to the margin of the forepart of the outsole and tothe outturned flange formed by said strip, activating the pyroxylincement on the upper and outsole and laying the outsole on the shoebottom, applying pressure to the shank portion of the shoe to cementattach the shank portion of the outsole to the overlasted upper, forcingthe outturned flange of the upper into the angle between the last andthe outsole margin at the forepart of the shoe to stick said flange tosaid margin by the pressure responsive cement, and attaching the outsoleand a welt to the outturned flange of the upper around the forepart ofthe shoe by through-and-through stitches.

CHESTER D. TURNER.

